L’Escargot’s formal approach is so anti-fashion in Soho, it’s practically avant-garde. White napery, yards of mirrors, & prints by Chagall, Miró & others create an elegant, old-style backdrop for classical French cuisine: snails (escargots) with garlic butter; lobster & chips; tournedos Rossini with sauce bordelaise & rösti, & proper posh puds such as banana soufflé with dark chocolate truffle & coffee milkshake. The wine list is inexhaustible, although it’s unlikely to be exploited to its full extent in today’s financial climate; at the realistic end, a 1996 Château d’Armailhac, 5ème cru classé, will set you back £85. Thankfully, lunch & pre-theatre menus come in at a much more palatable £15 for two courses, making L’Escargot a likely pit stop for show-goers & shoppers.
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