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‘My favourite restaurant by far’ enthuses one Putney resident, who goes on to praise Emile’s selection of elaborate, mostly European dishes & the good-value, interesting wine list. It’s a seemly place, where staff serve dinner with grace, & the oft-changing menu’s set pieces are well-loved by the mostly middle-aged regulars. Individual beef Wellington, the house speciality, is rarely seen these days, & might be preceded by more modish dishes of beetroot & coconut soup, or foie-gras pannacotta with poached plums on toasted brioche. Fish-eaters could choose grey mullet fillet with chorizo & almond risotto. Puds remain staunchly traditional, with treacle tart & sticky ginger & date pudding heading the list. Go to a posh Putney supper party & you might be dished up something from Emile’s take-home service.

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