Walk in past the waist-high carved elephants guarding the door and leave the suburban streets of the Isle of Dogs behind. Birdcages, oversized fans, polished Buddha effigies and clouds of orchids have been brought to this curvy stretch of the Thames to recreate the rarefied world of royal Siam. It’s hard to forget you’re in London when the view from the terrace is unbroken across to Greenwich, but the lengthy menu is unrepentantly Thai – a selection of satays, spring rolls, soups, salads, stir-fries and curries that’s particularly strong on seafood and vegetarian dishes. Some of the prices are a touch regal, but there’s a popular Sunday buffet (£16.50) as well as an excellent-value business lunch (£11.50) for those who are prepared to travel the five stops from Canary Wharf on the DLR.
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