A mature crowd of well-to-do locals and businessmen love the ‘French country garden’ feel of this pretty dining room, where elaborate floral arrangements are framed by faded murals of leafy landscapes. This seasoned campaigner has hosted many a long lunch down the decades, and an excellent-value set menu (£25 with a glass of Moutard Champagne) complements the rustic mood with homely dishes such as calf’s liver with wholegrain mustard sauce. Alternatively, dip into the carte for added culinary stimulation – perhaps smoked-duck pastrami with chicory, orange and date purée, Parmesan-crusted halibut with leek fondue and artichoke purée, or mango pannacotta with mint jelly. Fans of the grape are well served by the global wine list, while Sunday brunch and an all-day bar menu (burgers, omelettes, fishcake, and so on) complete the offer.
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