While lesser gastropubs dabble with American hipster fare – ribs, dogs and the rest – this trailblazer of the genre since the early 90s sticks to its eclectic European guns. The blackboard menus offer temptations at every turn – perhaps pappa al pomodoro (Tuscan bread and tomato ‘porridge’) or linguine with clams followed by plaice with braised peas, jamón and aïoli, or beef tagine with couscous. Steak sandwiches and Portuguese custard tarts are the only constants from the open kitchen. The pub itself is a lovely light-filled space, with windows wrapping around a tatty-but-nice jumble of battered wooden furniture and weathered floorboards – otherwise, snag one of the picnic tables outside for a pint of Red Stripe or Eagle IPA. The short and to-the-point wine list is a joy, with only a few bottles topping the £20 mark.
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