The Grill at The Dorchester
| Address: | The Dorchester, 53 Park Lane W1A 2HJ | |
|---|---|---|
| Tel: | 020 7629 8888 | |
| Email: | restaurants@thedorchester.com | |
| Website: | Visit website | |
| Price: £75.00 | Wine: £27.50 | Champagne: £70.00 |
| Opening Hours: | Mon-Sun 7-10.30am 12N-2.30pm 6.30-10.30pm | |
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Square Meal review of The Grill at The Dorchester:
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Given the ongoing British revival, it’s hardly surprising that The Grill at The Dorchester should re-embrace comforting familiarity after its flirtation with modern European promiscuity. So, following the departure of Aiden Byrne, the hotel has hired ex-Rhodes W1 chef Brian Hughson to fly the flag. But this isn’t simply nostalgia: the kitchen takes terrific British ingredients & treats them intelligently. Poached chicken & smoked mackerel ravioli with brown bread sauce was a surprisingly delicate intro, while seared scallops with cauliflower purée were outshone by an accompanying sardine pie. To follow, expect the likes of Cornish red mullet with smoked eel tortellini & Cumbrian ham – although best bets are the grills themselves, including an expertly cooked tranche of calf’s liver. Stiff prices are to be expected, but the biggest problem here is the room itself, decorated in garish OTT tartan garb. That said, well-spaced tables & solicitous service make it a good spot for business.
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