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The Grill at The Dorchester

Address:The Dorchester, 53 Park Lane, London W1K 1QA
Tel:020 7629 8888
Email:
Website: Visit website
Price: £71.00Wine: £35.00 Champagne: £75.00
Opening Hours:Mon-Sun 7-10.30am 12N-2.30pm 6.30-10.30pm

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Given the ongoing British revival, it’s hardly surprising that The Grill should re-embrace comforting familiarity after its flirtation with modern European promiscuity. So, following the departure of Aiden Byrne, The Dorchester hired ex-Rhodes W1 chef Brian Hughson to fly the flag. But this isn’t simply an exercise in nostalgia; the kitchen takes cracking British ingredients & treats them intelligently. Poached chicken & smoked mackerel ravioli with brown bread sauce makes a surprisingly delicate intro, although seared scallops with cauliflower purée have been outshone by their accompanying sardine pie. To follow, expect the likes of Cornish red mullet with smoked eel tortellini & Cumbrian ham – though best bets are the grills, including an expertly cooked tranche of calf’s liver. Prices are stiff, but the biggest problem is the room itself, decorated in garish OTT tartan. That said, well-spaced tables & solicitous service make this a good spot for business.

Wine List: Chosen by Jason McAuliffe, this interesting list is headed by a useful section of ‘wine team favourites’ that roam across regions & styles. The rest of the selection has a forte in regional France, with some big-hitting grands crus that bear a hefty price tag. But there’s also plenty of choice from elsewhere in the wine world, with quality vintages from well-known producers. Best Buy White 2006 Tallarook Roussanne, Victoria, Australia, £38. Best Buy Red 2006 Alfrocheiro, Quinta da Lagoalva, Ribatejo, Portugal, £40.

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Reader reviews of The Grill at The Dorchester:

Steve M.

Steve M. ( 50s, Male, United Kingdom )

I was entertaining a friend and his wife from India, who were visiting England for the first time. I chose to go to the Dorchester because it represented what I hoped would be a great example of a classic British restaurant, as opposed to many of our ‘top’ restaurants that are French or Italian inspired. Both of my guests were vegetarians. However, the Grill Room web-site claimed that they catered specifically for vegetarians and I was pleased to download a sample vegetarian menu to review. This looked great and it had lot's of choice. Making sure that I emphasised that two of my party of six were vegetarians on making (and re-confirming) the booking, I was confident of a great evening. You know what is coming next, don't you!! The amuse bouche was made of chicken and there was no alternative offered. The only starter suitable for them was a cheese pasta. Well, not too bad, but disappointing that there was no choice. For the main meal, again there was only one suitable plate on offer. Guess what! Pasta … with a cheese sauce. My guests were of course gallant and polite, but I was deeply embarrassed. The waiters were seemingly unconcerned, and the ‘maitre de’ unable or unwilling to push the kitchen to be more creative for us. How a top hotel can fail in this way is really inexcusable. For the rest of the party the food was acceptable, but expensive. I shall not be returning!

November 2008
Overall:4
Food and Drink:5
Service:6
Atmosphere:6
Value for Money:4
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Chris C.
Gold Reviewer

Chris C. ( 30s, Male, London )

The interior designer must have been told Robbie Burns not Aiden Byrne when they came up with the interior which is more befitting the Braveheart set than a restaurant.
That said though, the food was exemplary, the service friendly and efficient, won’t be long before he get a Michelin star again.

September 2008
Overall:8
Food and Drink:9
Service:9
Atmosphere:6
Value for Money:8
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