The Grill at The Dorchester

Given the ongoing British revival, it’s hardly surprising that The Grill should re-embrace comforting familiarity after its flirtation with modern European promiscuity. So, following the departure of Aiden Byrne, The Dorchester hired ex-Rhodes W1 chef Brian Hughson to fly the flag. But this isn’t simply an exercise in nostalgia; the kitchen takes cracking British ingredients & treats them intelligently. Poached chicken & smoked mackerel ravioli with brown bread sauce makes a surprisingly delicate intro, although seared scallops with cauliflower purée have been outshone by their accompanying sardine pie. To follow, expect the likes of Cornish red mullet with smoked eel tortellini & Cumbrian ham – though best bets are the grills, including an expertly cooked tranche of calf’s liver. Prices are stiff, but the biggest problem is the room itself, decorated in garish OTT tartan. That said, well-spaced tables & solicitous service make this a good spot for business.

Wine List: Chosen by Jason McAuliffe, this interesting list is headed by a useful section of ‘wine team favourites’ that roam across regions & styles. The rest of the selection has a forte in regional France, with some big-hitting grands crus that bear a hefty price tag. But there’s also plenty of choice from elsewhere in the wine world, with quality vintages from well-known producers. Best Buy White 2006 Tallarook Roussanne, Victoria, Australia, £38. Best Buy Red 2006 Alfrocheiro, Quinta da Lagoalva, Ribatejo, Portugal, £40.