With its bizarre tartan tones and murals of claymore-wielding clansmen, this paragon of civility and decorum can feel like ‘eating in a plush Scottish shortbread tin’ – although there are no wheezing bagpipes to be heard. St Andrew’s Day celebrants appreciate the venue’s grandiose excesses, but elsewhere the Caledonian theme plays second fiddle to some deftly executed, seasonal food. Trundling trolleys and tableside theatre are throwbacks to earlier times, but the kitchen nominally plants its feet on more modern ground – think crisp-skinned sea bass with beans, pancetta and tarragon alongside an oyster perched on a cube of salty jelly or a trioof lamb with pea purée, morels and asparagus. To finish, order the chocolate and hazelnut sphere – a ‘posh Kinder Surprise’ cracked open to reveal an oozing centre. Warm-hearted staff ensure everyone feels valued – even if prices sting.
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