There are some Japanese restaurants with more sex appeal than Defune, & there are others with more atmosphere or lower prices, but an impeccable reputation goes a long way. This oriental veteran has been in action for more than 30 years (first on Blandford Street, now in a smart Marylebone enclave), & it’s become renowned for offering standout traditional dishes in pleasingly approachable, unblingy surrounds. There are no attempts at modernity for its own sake, & the menu resolutely follows a well-trodden path through sushi & sashimi, soba & udon noodles, teriyaki & tempura, cold, green salads anointed with vinegary dressings & other benchmarks of the old cuisine. It’s all good, which means that bills can ratchet up easily – even a quick-fix lunch will set you back more than £20.
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