Named after an antiquated method of making port, the Crusting Pipe is part of the Davy’s portfolio, a group noted for its quality & value – especially where wines are concerned. In quasi-Dickensian surroundings, there’s plenty of oenophile interest around the £20 mark (Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc, Alsace Pinot & Castilian rosé) or you can trade up to vieilles vignes such as Châteauneuf du Pâpe. As ever, the by-the-glass selection is notable, & the boozy inventory extends to fortified wines, Meantime ales, & malts such as Glenkinchie 12 Year Old. Food is a familiar mix of brasserie, trattoria & country pub (think organic salmon niçoise, penne with cherry tomatoes & feta, or bangers & mash). A lighter menu is served in the courtyard where musicians & magicians complete ‘ye olde Nell Gwynne experience’ over afternoon tea.
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