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Housed in a cellar next to the tube station, Corney & Barrow Monument is one of the chain’s smaller outposts, although there’s a surprising amount of room within its warren of beautifully restored brickwork & snug alcoves. Jaunty striped banquettes & artfully soft lighting combine with efficient air conditioning to underline the impression of spaciousness. Early breakfasts catch the commuting crowds, while the lunch menu covers most bases from sandwiches & ploughman’s to salade niçoise, sirloin steak or pork & apple sausages with mash; come evening, the kitchen restricts itself to snacks, nibbles & sharing platters. Liquid refreshment comes courtesy of the helpfully annotated Corney & Barrow wine list, & there’s also a cosmopolitan choice of bottled & draught beers, plus a few ciders.

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