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Apsleys – a Heinz Beck Restaurant at The Lanesboroughone star

Address:The Lanesborough, Hyde Park Corner, London SW1X 7TA
Tel:020 7333 7254
Email:
Website:Visit website
Price: £76.00Wine: £28.00Champagne: £65.00
Opening Hours:Mon-Sun 6.30-11am 12N-2pm 7-10.30pm

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Designer Adam Tihany was enlisted to give The Lanesborough’s grand dining room a makeover, resulting in a handsome, restrained art deco interior featuring breathtaking chandeliers. Phase two of the revamp sees the conscription of another big name, this time in the kitchen. Enter Heinz Beck, three-Michelin-starred messiah from Rome’s venerable La Pergola. With such a pedigree, it’s unsurprising that Beck’s cooking eschews the current vogue for pared-back, ingredients-led Italian cooking, but if you’re in the mood for spoiling yourself, his signature dishes go down a treat: melt-in-the-mouth pasta parcels that discharge a rich stream of carbonara sauce, say, or roast pigeon topped by a slice of beautifully prepared foie gras. Service doesn’t miss a beat, & the Old World-accented wine list is a gem. This might not be the buzziest dining room in town, but the well-spaced tables & subdued ambience are just the ticket for discreet business meets.

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Reader reviews of Apsleys – a Heinz Beck Restaurant at The Lanesborough:

Antonella C.

Antonella C. ( 30s )

One (actually 3!) of the best food experience i have ever head. The truffle menu was a pleasure for the senses…the souffle' the best i ever had. Attention to details and great service. I will go back as soon as I can…absolutely,the best italian restaurant in London
After saying that we came back recently with some guests and the chef offered to prepare a “special menu” for us. No caviar or truffle, just very good raw fish…for £290 each excluding drinks!!! It was a real shame!

31 March 2010
Overall:9
Food and Drink:9
Service:9
Atmosphere:7
Value for Money:1
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Liz G.
Gold Reviewer

Liz G. ( 30s, Female, United Kingdom )

Went there for a quick business lunch. The interior looks fantastic, art deco definitely works for this particular place. Tables are spaced out nicely, and it's one of few places in London where you can actually talk during meal and not to shout to be heard.
Wine cellar on both sides of the entrance looks impressive, and the restaurant prides itself on the special wine vacuum machines which allow them to serve expensive wines by glass without imposing the whole bottle on you.
Service is immaculate and inobtrusive. A very nice selection of Italian breads served before meal.
For starter, the Sea bass “Connolo” was great, the fish retaining the full flavour and its delicate texture, whilst the crispy coating adding a nice twist to it. I hate celery with all my heart, but it tastes lovely there, so don't let it put you off.
Partridge poached in cabbage leaves was very succulent, and did not leave any unpleasant aftertaste (as may sometimes happen with game).
I didn't have much room for dessert which I regret with all my heart, however the tiny Italian hand-made sweets they served with coffee were lovely (almond ones are a real treat, and the bergamoth zuccerini are a must with tea!!).
Overall, very very good.

20 October 2009
Overall:8
Food and Drink:8
Service:9
Atmosphere:9
Value for Money:8
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R.R.Gill
Gold Reviewer

R.R.Gill ( 30s, Male, United Kingdom )

Editor's pick

Well with a new chef at the helm of Apsley's a place which I've always enjoyed, I thought I should rush back to check it out. A summer of rumours regarding Heinz Becks arrival has kept me on my toes and I'm very happy to say I was not disappointed. Physically there seems to be no difference in the style or look of the restaurant, which in my opinion was great anyway – all that natural light and little bit of chic opulence. The menu has obviously had quite a big change so I decided to go for the a la carte instead of the menu del giorno ( I've read so many reviews with people dining from the set menu it should perhaps be renamed “Menu del Journo…” no?…ok I'll get my coat.)

Anyway for starter I chose the Sea bass “Connolo” with celery and melon – very tasty and light flavours from the celery and melon complimenting the sea bass very well. Next a mid course of pasta and we went for the Carbonara fagotelli – one of Mr Beck's signature dishes. It was without doubt superb, very light parcels filled with a light and fluffy carbonara sauce – it tasted exquisite. Onto the mains and I opted for Slow braised veal cheek on apple puree and salsify – perfectly tender and juicy. We finished off with a chocolate soufflé with ice cream – simple but perfectly executed. Presentation was very good almost to the point where you didn't want to spoil the dishes by tucking in.

Service as as previous was excellent – very professional and knowledgeable. All in all a very pleasant lunch, Mr Beck has obviously been brought in to put Apsley's on the map as a… More

28 September 2009
Overall:10
Food and Drink:10
Service:10
Atmosphere:9
Value for Money:9
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EM

EM ( Male, London )

A friend of mine who had been lucky with money and in love had offered to take me out for supper last night.
Not wanting to disappoint, I suggested we try the new Apsleys and see if they were indeed the future of London's culinery scene.

I could not be further from the truth.

We went for the £26 menu del giorno.

The amuse bouche was a skewer of chicken satay.

To me, the amuse bouche is like a handshake/welcome from the chef. It tempts the palate and subtly introduces the dishes and flavours that are to follow. Chicken satay in this instance, just didn't quite do it for me, and as predicted the rest of the meal was lacklustre to say the least.

My starter of slow cooked Iberian pork was probably the better of the two savoury courses. It was however still firm and lacked that distinct taste unique to the Iberian pig (all those acorns eaten gone to waste). My suspicion was that the sauce/emulsion that the meat was cooked in, overpowered the natural flavours of the pork and being rich in sugars and salts, drew out essential moisture from the meat.

It is a shame that seabream was the fish used in the main course and not sole, as that would have been closer to the truth. It was overly firm and (in the words of my dinner companion) was like “eating the sole of my shoe”.

The saving grace is definately the Rosemary ice-cream and Araguani liquid chocolate tart combination. The ice cream was like a shy maiden. With the first taste, you get hints of rosemary and then ginger and then cinnamon, none of which come across strongly. But when… More

16 September 2009
Overall:6
Food and Drink:4
Service:8
Atmosphere:10
Value for Money:4
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Flying Foodie
Gold Reviewer

Flying Foodie ( 40s, Male, United Kingdom )

Editor's pick

Apsleys looks fabulous after its refurb, with three enormous chandeliers hanging from the central glass atrium and plush seating all around. Tables are well spaced and discreet, whilst the raised outer parts of the restaurant provide good people watching.

I was disappointed by the rather plain menu, but then Italian ones often are. I felt the surroundings justified a more creative Michelin-style extravagent menu. As it happened my desired dishes were on their remarkably good value £24 three course dinner menu. We both plumped for that and loved it. My starter of poached egg and parmesan over an asparagus salad was delicious, although my main of gnocchi was a little plain. This was more than made up for by an excellent chocolate mousse with coffee sorbet.

Service was superb throughout and the staff looked great in their rather cool uniforms. The only clanger was the ultimate sin-of-sins…..My credit card was brought to me to sign, which seemed odd in these days of PINs. The reason being that they were leaving a prominent space for me to insert a tip, after been charged a full 15% already. Naughty boys.

June 2009
Overall:9
Food and Drink:8
Service:10
Atmosphere:8
Value for Money:9
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