Carluccio's West Smithfield

Forget banks & estate agents – if you want a sure sign of an area’s gentrification, look for a Carluccio’s. This caffè/restaurant/deli group is where the chattering classes go when they want casual, comfortable, Italian food that ‘never disappoints’. Interiors are light & airy, decked out in signature blue & white, while the vibe is relaxed & family-friendly. It’s good value, too, with enormous portions, even at lunchtime. Spot-on platters of antipasti comprise colourful caponata with slivers of salami & other cold cuts, & pasta also delivers some real treats – perhaps seafood linguine generously heaped with plump mussels, juicy prawns & tender squid rings. Mains can be less inspired (osso bucco is solid, rather than sensational), but puds lift the spirits: traditional bitter chocolate gelato & tiramisu are both molto bene. Staff can sometimes be stretched by the sheer volume of diners, but always remain ‘cheery & welcoming’.