Kensington legend Sally Clarke has been busy of late: she’s moved her renowned shop/bakery across the road, added a bar to her restaurant, installed a new kitchen and is now open from breakfast onwards. Back in the 80s, she helped introduce Londoners to the smoky delights of Californian-style char-grilling and was an early champion of organic produce, and her food is still defined by freshness, seasonality and shrewd sourcing. A new clay oven is used for roast chicken and lunchtime pizzas, but her full repertoire is built around complex, vibrant dishes such as ravioli of fava beans with ricotta, goats’ cheese and mint with aged Parmesan or pork tenderloin with apricots, spinach, couscous and pistachios. Not surprisingly, organic bottles and Californian varietals make a big contribution to the pedigree wine list.
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