Clarke's

A welcome return to Sally Clarke's after too long away, and in the meantime we had forgotten the meaning of freshness, flavour, simplicity, and judgement all of which were in evidence from start to too soon finished. Lack of pretension, positive confidence and understanding of the restaurant's meaning, resulted in a most enjoyable evening. Wine was also splendid and good value for money at the £30 mark (the Barbera d'alba fantastically fruity and fragrant). Try the Bonny Doon desert wine – a Rousanne which was memorable and unlike most benilyn-like after dinner sweets).

Clarke's is a Notting Hill institution, and deservedly so. The short menu offers much to tempt and the cooking is for the most part well judged and well executed. The focus on really fresh, seasonal ingredients which is now so fashionable has been at this restaurant's heart since it opened and this is to its credit.

Dishes I have enjoyed in the past have included an outstanding rabbit with puy lentils, and lovely rib eye steak with some of the best chips I have ever eaten. I have found the food to be slightly overseasoned on the odd occasion, and I say this as someone who is unafraid of salt, but by and large it is delicious. I would liken it to the River Cafe in its style – brilliant, simple food which is ambitious yet unsullied by needless pretension and fuss.

Service is excellent, the staff knowledgeable and polite and perfectly attentive. I would recommend Clarkes for lunch or dinner and it is as equally suited to business occasions as it is to social.