Beloved of bon viveurs, this sleek art-deco bar draws everyone from Hindustani princes to parents out celebrating their daughter's wedding. To match the mood, the cellar's stellar selection of Champagnes runs from Laurent-Perrier (£17 a stem) to Dom Pérignon (£4K for a magnum of ‘62), while cocktails are top drawer – try smoked apple and pears (made with Lagavulin whisky), rum-based dark almond punch, or a westbunchtini (Miller's Westbourne strength gin, honey and crushed grapes). Eat whatever takes your fancy: caviar and oysters, fish and chips, club sandwiches, salads, bento boxes and, of course, the Square Meal platter. Le Fumoir is an aubergine-toned, low-lit lounge for 12 people, built around a horseshoe bar where Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers once chinked coupes. Service is finely polished – just like the room's Lalique and mirrored decor.
The Champagne selection is special, with enviable selections of formats and vintages for 20 marques of varying sizes. Only eight are available by the glass, and there’s precious little under £100, but it’s unlikely the target audience look at the right-hand column too closely. Perfect for the luxury bar it serves.
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