Chutney Mary

Chelsea’s landmark Indian seems to get better with age. A new look – complete with crystal-studded silk wall hangings – brings dash & drama to what was a cooler space. Such opulence is a perfect match for the vibrant cooking of new head chef Siddharth Krishna, who brings a fresh, original spirit to proceedings. Vividly spiced patties of tender Gressingham duck with a velvety blueberry chutney set the tone. Mains raise the bar another notch: tandoor-fired wild prawns scented with yellow chillis & – best of all – halibut in a voluptuous coconut sauce, expertly cut with fiery mustard. Desserts skilfully straddle that East-West no-man’s land (a glorious Alfonso mango pannacotta, for example) & the wine list works in step with the menu. Topping it off is effortlessly smooth, personable service. Dining at Chutney Mary is far from cheap, but this is a flawless experience from a restaurant at the top of its game.