Rather than draping Indian food in upscale gloss, Chor Bizarre favours trinkets and trappings collected from ‘thieves markets’ all over the subcontinent – it’s ‘like sitting in the middle of a bazaar’, observed one reader. Shelves lined with bric-a-brac, resplendent antique furnishings and oriental objets d’art capture a mood that mainstream curry houses simply can’t match. To celebrate its 15th anniversary, the restaurant has had a makeover with the addition of a ‘Bollywood basement’ marking 100 years of the film genre. There’s also a new chef, and the revamped menu now features pan-Indian dishes such as Keralan fish moilee, crispy lotus root with tamarind chutney, and masla tofu with coriander and green onions alongside chaats, tak-a-tak platters, crab cakes, tandoori lamb chops and other street-food favourites. To drink, wines chosen by expert Charles Metcalfe compete with 30 varieties of Indian tea.
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