Chez Gerard Dover Street

No matter what the season, the Mayfair outpost of Chez Gerard can adapt to suit. Come summer, park yourself in the cool tiled conservatory, with its light wicker furniture & high ceilings; come winter, it’s the vaults of the cellar that demand your custom, with their exposed brickwork & cosy vibe. The rest of the time, the main dining areas – some with wood panelling, others mixing warm wood floors & cool monochrome prints – will fit the bill. The menu is equally flexible, offering full-on French cooking (half a dozen Burgundy snails in garlic & parsley butter, say), as well as options for fussy diners. Who could fault the simplicity of a herb-marinated free-range chicken, cooked on the grill & then served with pommes frites & a watercress salad? Wash it down with something from the regional wine list, which has plenty of by-the-glass options.