Chez Gerard Bishopsgate

Following its re-launch under new ownership, the Chez Gérard name is back on the streets of London. As before, the formula is classic brasserie food with a strong French accent and a fondness for ‘le steak’ – in this case derived from grass-fed Casterbridge beef. The menu forgoes surprises in favour of French onion soup, home-smoked salmon with truffle oil and Caesar salad (prepped at the table) followed by, say, onglet with ‘bottomless’ fries and a special CG sauce, whole spiced turbot or half a roast chicken with gravy. Veggies may feel short-changed, while desserts are a mixed bag ranging from pistachio soufflé to steamed treacle pud. ‘Express’ deals (£19.95 for a plate of sirloin with all the trimmings) are a trademark, and the wine list is a wallet-friendly, French-led collection with refreshingly ‘capped’ mark-ups.