The Chez Gérard name may no longer be ‘a guarantee of consistency’, but it’s cheering to hear that this London-based chain of French brasseries has pulled up its chaussettes. The much-maligned cover charge has been dropped & service, once shoddy, is now ‘attentive’ & ‘sympathetic’. The surprisingly good food offers ‘no surprises’ but who needs them when you’re ordering classic brasserie starters such as onion soup & escargots followed by mains of onglet steak & frites, boeuf bourguignon or sea bass ‘en papillote’. ‘Les desserts’ are predictable, but none the worse for it: tarte au citron, crème brûlée etc. Vegetarians fare marginally better than they might on French soil, though steak really is the thing here. The wine list is strong on France, but open to New World influences.
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