Chez Bruce

The closely spaced tables & noise levels are more brasserie than hushed temple to gastronomy, but this hubbub-filled dining room is still the finest in south London. With a reliance on top-quality, often forgotten ingredients, Bruce Poole consistently hits the highest notes with his gutsy, Anglo/French expressions of classically based cooking. A melange of chicken wings, duck hearts, wild mushrooms & snails showed off an earthiness not often seen in today’s superchef kitchens. In contrast, an offering of pasta with red mullet, clams & octopus exhibited simple elegance. Excellent fish mains (roast cod with olive oil mash & gremolata is a particular favourite), offal-based dishes & veg offerings could all be judged specialities. For those on a meat mission, the cote de boeuf (for two), served French style with béarnaise sauce & chips, is an absolute treat. Puds are superb & the cheeseboard is an education. The staff are consummate pros who see to your every need without being intrusive.

Wine List: Wine lovers should arrive early to study the 43 pages of this quite brilliant list. Each bin is one of the best of its type & reasonable mark ups make for huge choice under £30. Stunning older bargains can also be had thanks to a group policy of cellaring fine wine. Burgundy is a strength but the affable sommelier team might lead you towards Greece or Canada. Best Buy White 2005 Loureiro, Quinta do Ameal, Ponte De Lima, Portugal, £24. Best Buy Red 2001 Cotes du Rhone, Domaine Charvin, France, £30.