It's no longer a headline grabber, but Anouska Hempel's boutique hotel trailblazer continues to have plenty of cachet in certain circles – judging by the swarms of leggy models flitting around the place. Despite some ageing, the dark, masculine tones and subtle oriental themes still create a sultry atmosphere in the basement dining room. The kitchen knows its stuff, and the east/west fusion menu contains some real stars: a starter of foie-gras tortellini in a rich, meaty sauce is pure decadence, mains aim for luxury with the likes of beef-fillet teriyaki and hot saké, while a vast wobbling caramel soufflé to share (doused in butterscotch sauce) is a show-stealing dessert. You don't have to be Kate Moss to afford dinner, but a healthy bank balance certainly takes the edge off high prices.
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