Successfully retaining the art-deco feel – if not the fabric – of a grand 1930s' banking hall, Caravaggio is an enjoyably theatrical, capacious Italian with high ceilings, splendid original light fittings and a discreet mezzanine from which to observe proceedings. The kitchen delivers ‘big portions of nice regional food' with a few creative flurries, from cream of cannellini-bean soup with spiced octopus or linguine with clams and samphire to honey-roast duck breast with cinnamon-spiced apple and red wine sauce or flame-grilled mackerel with chickpea blinis and Mediterranean sauce. The ‘superior' wine list is Italian-led but eclectic, with a 2011 Bacchus from Devon alongside various Amarones and Barolos. The mood is brisk at lunchtime, although the place unwinds in the evening as soft, moody lighting works its magic. Service is ‘accommodating', helpful and friendly.
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