Caravaggio

The clerks & counters may be long gone but there’s still a businesslike hum about this art deco former banking hall which makes it a perfect venue for power diners. Like the decor, the cooking has its considerable charms: the marinated salmon tartare on ruby grapefruit has a sushi-like grace & a main course of monkfish on finely diced vegetables with clams & a wonderfully fragrant broth is similarly refined, while perfectly cooked stracci with suckling pig ragu is satisfyingly earthy. Champagnes aside, the wine list is all-Italian & offers plenty of Brunellos, Barbarescos & Barolos to max the expense account; there are wines by the glass & a few half bottles for those with desks to return to. Desserts are presented with old-fashioned panache, with spun sugar, tuille biscuits & brandy snap baskets much in evidence; service is similarly sweet.