Once a chattering trend-setter, this clubby, cosmopolitan, civilised blue-chip continues to carve out a special niche within London’s social scene. With its quiet, understated glamour, it still seduces a cast of well-dressed media, arts and money moguls with its monochrome interiors, riffing piano player (in the evening) and David Bailey photographs. Salmon fishcakes with sorrel sauce and other long-serving classics queue up on the menu, which takes diners on a familiar trip from caramelised onion tart with sautéed ceps or lamb’s sweetbreads with a crispy fried egg to rhubarb Bakewell pudding or passion fruit meringue via the legendary Caprice burger, Thai-baked sea bass or roast rack of lamb with smoked aubergine and tapenade sauce. ‘Highly professional’ service reliably hits the mark, while weekend brunch, live Sunday jazz and an alfresco terrace add further magic to a winning package.
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