So good they named the company after it, Caprice Holdings’ flagship is one of those London institutions that every restaurant-goer should visit once. Ideally more than once, as the experience is immeasurably better when one gets the royal treatment afforded to regulars at this high-glamour destination. Consistent, unfussy food in two registers – haute comfort or assiduously seasonal – is another good reason for repeat bookings. The kitchen’s all-time signatures – the salmon fishcake with sorrel sauce, the Caprice burger, the Scandinavian iced berries – have hung in there for a reason, though weekly specials such as cod with smoked-garlic mash & ceps or soft-shell crab tempura are often more tempting. Pre/post-theatre menus are a steal (from £19.75), though it’s more fun to sit at the bar for one quick course, a drop or two of wine (the entire list is available by the glass), & some serious people-watching.
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