It may be more than 30 years old, but this iconic Mayfair darling is still young at heart, seducing a glitzy crew of hedgies, grown-up hedonists and longtime regulars with its glamorous vibe, monochrome interiors and David Bailey photos – aided and abetted by ever-accommodating maître d' Jesus Adorno. The kitchen deals in approachable brasserie food, delivering ‘superlative' quality and value for an appreciative crowd: standouts include bittersweet endive, fennel and avocado salad with mustard dressing, ‘milky' rump of veal with sweetcorn and girolles, and a fine plate of suckling pig – although classic staples such as the salmon fishcakes are always in demand. To finish, try the fudge sundae coupe. Caprice Holdings' senior citizen has also moved with the times, adding weekend brunch, live Sunday jazz and alfresco tables to its enduringly popular offer, while comfortable new perches at the bar keep impromptu diners happy
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