A resplendent painted mural runs along the back wall of this bona fide Italian, depicting the journey of provisions from port to marketplace to kitchen – a subtle nod, perhaps, to the philosophy of this riverside ‘cantina’ from the D&D London group. Low ceilings create a cosy atmosphere that chimes perfectly with the rustic Italian cooking on offer – imagine ‘Tuscany by the Thames’ or something similar. ‘Classics’ such as tagliolini with crab and chilli are always in demand, but also look out for refined seasonal specialities ranging from paccheri pasta with spicy ’nduja sausage and pecorino to polenta-crusted sea bass with fennel and caperberries. Italian breads are baked each day, the ‘menu del giorno’ is a steal (£12.50/15.50 for two/three courses), and the all-Italian wine list shows confidence in regional grapes, with plenty of good drinking below £30.
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