Cambio de Tercio

Ever since opening in the mid-1990s, Cambio de Tercio has been a standard bearer for top-level Iberian cuisine. Judging from a recent visit, it remains on sparkling form. The funky little dining room has mustard-yellow, black & blood-red walls offset by diverting paintings. The kitchen is renowned for innovation – a shot glass layered with foie gras, Pedro Ximénez sherry & roast sweetcorn topped with manchego foam provides a balanced hit of texture & flavour – but it also excels at traditional specialities such as crisp-skinned suckling pig with rosemary potatoes. Eat tapas-style or follow the three-course route. Either way, don’t miss the star dessert – white chocolate ganache, pistachio powder, passion fruit & ginger ice cream. Alternatively, treat yourself to the good-value nine-course tasting menu (£37) with something from the patriotic wine list (which runs from Alella to Yecla). Efficient young Spanish staff greet newcomers like regulars & treat regulars as part of the family.