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‘This place gets it' declares one reader, clearly cock-a-hoop with Cambio de Tercio's upmarket Iberian vibe. Once inside, flaming Rioja-red ceilings and Seville-orange walls assault the senses, but ‘willing' staff manage to keep things calm and rather formal. Although it was a radical departure from London's tapas norm when it launched in 1995, the kitchen can still throw a few surprises with its startling and innovative take on Spanish cuisine. Signature tapas range from sardines marinated in sherry vinegar with Arbequina olives and Martini Rosso jelly to Basque-style crab ravioli with leek emulsion, sea asparagus and seaweed. Mains are more comforting – grilled hake with baby squid and light alioli, perhaps – before desserts crank it up with an artfully deconstructed G&T (Bombay Sapphire gelée, tonic-water sorbet and lime foam). The wonderfully esoteric, sherry-heavy wine list tops off a marvellous package.

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