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‘Cobbled entrance, French accents, brick walls, white tablecloths' is a reader's scene-setter for Le Café du Marché, which has been a firm favourite in Smithfield since 1986. Comprising two restaurants (the Café and the upstairs Le Grenier) plus Le Rendezvous brasserie next door, it could surely teach the new kids on the block a lesson or two about professional service and bourgeois cuisine. The prix-fixe menu doesn't dazzle with daring; instead, it concentrates on attractively presented, enjoyable dishes such as soupe de poissons or pork rillettes with toast followed by navarin of lamb or a special of turbot fillet with crab hollandaise and asparagus. Pot au chocolat or French fromages round things off nicely. Unsurprisingly, the very appealing wine list leans towards Bordeaux and Burgundy, but there's also a good global showing. Occasional live jazz nights, too.

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