Busaba Eathai Wardour Street

Bucking the trend for a growing mini-group – it has swelled from three branches to five in the past year – Busaba Eathai is raising standards as it expands. Interiors are unchanged, with dark oriental woods & low lighting creating a sultry, exotic tone in the communal dining space, & service is good-natured & speedy as ever, but it’s the kitchen that’s winning plaudits. As always, there are no starters or puds, only main dishes & sides. Creatures of habit will find comforting noodles, soups & curries here, but it’s well worth seeking out lesser-known creations, such as pat kind talay: textures & flavours marry superbly in this stir-fry of prawns, squid & scallop with frilly wood-ear mushrooms & slivers of ginger in a light, umami-rich sauce. Team it with nutty brown rice & a garlic-laden heap of morning glory for a dose of good health.