Browns Maddox Street

A 25-year-old veteran of the restaurant London scene, Browns remains as safe & solid as the day it opened. Unfussy European dishes & classic Brit favourites form the backbone of the large all-day menu, served in convivial, brasserie-style surroundings. Start things off with ham hock terrine & piccalilli or half a dozen oysters, then move on to chicken pappardelle or steak-frites, before concluding with apple pie & custard or Pimms jelly with strawberry coulis. The all-day remit embraces reasonably priced breakfasts & afternoon tea, as well as a dependable, if unexciting, pre-theatre menu – although lunch remains the liveliest time in most outlets. With an accessible wine list & reasonably priced aperitifs (Campari & orange, Pimm’s Royale), as well as good-humoured staff, it’s small wonder that Browns continues to woo the crowds.