Rivals may come & go, but the enduring Francophile appeal of this little restaurant/wine bar next to St Mary-le-Bow remains undimmed – sit at one of the buzzy alfresco tables & you could almost be in Lyon or Bordeaux. If the sun fails to shine, the choice is between the plush downstairs dining room or the unfussy panelled bar. Either way, the food keeps it straight & true, delivering gravadlax with dill dressing before char-grilled Scottish rib-eye steak with fat triple-cooked chips & béarnaise sauce, or perhaps roast cod fillet with romano beans, lardons & salsa verde. Many dishes are available in two sizes, & there’s a simpler menu of sandwiches, sharing platters, burgers & suchlike at the bar. Service knows how to charm & the French-led wine list is refreshingly broad.
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