This unadulterated bistro looks as if it’s been plucked from the belly of Paris & deposited in Mayfair without so much as a wash & brush-up. Regulars love the place, praising its terrific French food & cosy, ‘unpretentious’ atmosphere – although it can get pretty raucous at times. Mind you, any rowdy whooping from the assembled company should be instantly forgotten as captivating plates of authentic bourgeois food are brought to the table – perhaps snails in garlic & parsley, neck of lamb on haricot beans, onion soup bubbling beneath a raft of Emmental, or more inspired creations such as smoked mackerel & haddock terrine with honey & mustard dressing. Service can occasionally detract from the kitchen’s efforts, with surly staff living up to clichéd Gallic stereotypes. Wine is taken seriously.
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