Accept Bouchon Bordelais as a little patch of France in Clapham, with all the good points & bad that this entails. On the upside is excellent cooking of French brasserie classics: steaks, snails, & goats’ cheese salad are all as you’d expect. Portions, while not massive, are adequate, & the steak sauces (poivre, beurre maître d’hôtel, and so on) are comme il faut. There’s an inevitable bias towards Bordeaux on the French-heavy wine list. The downside can be a certain arrogance from the all-French staff, & occasionally a Gallic refusal to speak or understand English. Casual diners are well served by the more relaxed bar, where croque monsieurs & cheese plates are the order of the day. The takeaway service – providing the likes of roast chicken with gratin dauphinois & green beans with garlic butter – is popular at local dinner parties.
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