Tucked beneath the prettily tiled Edwardian office building from which it takes its name, Bolton’s is a soothingly unchanging Italian of the old school, with swirly carpets, exposed brick and 80s-style polished stone creating an upmarket if undeniably old-fashioned setting. Suited silver foxes come here for timeless trattoria comfort food, and the kitchen delivers with feel-good dishes of calamari fritti or Parma ham with melon before a main-course serving of linguine with lobster and fresh tomato, fillet of sea bass in a clam and shrimp sauce or perhaps calf’s liver with butter and sage. Daily specials could include chicken breast alla fiorentina with spinach, smoked cheese and white-wine sauce, while calorific desserts are laid out on a trolley. The cosmopolitan wine list has strong Italian presence, although choice by the glass is limited to a handful of house selections.
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