You’ll be in suited company at this plush basement Italian close to Lloyds, where ‘expenses prevail’ & ever-professional staff welcome customers like old friends – which many of them are. Fans who treasure the warm-glow familiarity of trattoria food will enjoy themselves here, because the kitchen knows its way around the world of calamari fritti, wild-boar bresaola & saltimbocca alla romana – as well as dropping in a few continental old-stagers such as Dover sole meunière or beef fillet with a fresh herb sauce. Bolton’s also keeps faith with the tradition of the cream-laden sweet trolley, & in true international fashion, the wine list supplements patriotic Amarone & Bardolino with representatives from France & the New World. Sadly, the atmosphere can be hampered by tables that are too close for business comfort.
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