Bolton's

Brass, brickwork and swirly carpets aren't the stuff of contemporary restaurant fashion, yet there's no denying the feel-good factor oozing from this resolutely traditional basement Italian, where the stated aim is to produce food like mamma used to make. Daily specials might include speck alla Bolton's with char-grilled vegetables and mozzarella or bocconcini alla boscaiola – strips of fillet beef with a red wine and mushroom sauce. For maximum comfort, however, browse the full menu featuring old favourites such as deep-fried Camembert with gooseberry preserve, spaghetti with baby clams, scampi fritti or grilled calf's liver and bacon with butter and sage. Cream-laden desserts are displayed on a trolley, the cosmopolitan wine list shows its loyalties to the home country, and service can't be faulted. ‘Not cheap, but good', affirms a typical fan.