Hidden away at the eastern end of Butler’s Wharf, with the odd angler setting up his rod outside, this glass-encased space is relatively calm and quiet compared to D&D London’s showier spots further west – although it ‘never fails to deliver’. The kitchen is known for its dedication to top-quality seasonal ingredients, and it sends out carefully cooked, vividly presented dishes full of clean, bright flavours. Ham-hock terrine is dressed up with English peas, fluffy pea mousse, mustard vinaigrette and a sprinkling of dainty blue edible flowers, while corn-fed chicken breast comes with wild mushrooms and spinach, swathed in a deep, creamy roast-sweetcorn sauce. The river views are splendid, prices are eminently reasonable (especially the fixed-price ‘market’ menu), and the succinct but varied wine list offers plenty by the glass..
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