Located on the first floor of the strikingly beautiful, art-deco Michelin House, Bibendum seems a cosseted world away from the traffic chaos below. Inside it’s a civilised, commodious cocoon, with starched tablecloths, dickie-bowed waiters & the murmur of dignified chatter in the air – not to mention decorative reminders of Michelin’s motoring history (note the emblematic stained-glass window). The food is a model of affluence & contentment – ‘excellent, punctilious, quietly consistent’ & robustly priced. A starter of lobster salad with roast tomatoes, fennel & courchamps sauce weighs in at £24, while a main of grilled veal chop with Roquefort butter leaves little change from £30 – although a daily lunch menu brings prices earthwards again. Not that the deep-pocketed locals, cashmere-clad couples, & dapper elders care much about the bill at this cherished institution.
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