It’s ‘always good fun’ at this Chelsea branch of the international Benihana chain. Entertainment is the restaurant’s shtick, & your interest is piqued from the start, with photos of celebrity diners framed in the doorway. From then on, you’re the VIP: descend the red-carpeted stairs to the spacious, darkened bar for a saké aperitif, then move to the quirkily decorated dining room whose white, jagged walls are layered to resemble mountains. Each table has a dedicated chef who cooks dinner ‘with gusto’ on a hibachi grill; perhaps top-quality steak, tuna or king prawns, paired with grilled vegetables & fried rice. Japan’s most bankable dishes make up the rest of the menu – miso soup, sushi & sashimi are all capably executed. However, the show’s the thing for families & tourists.
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