Balls Brothers St James's Street

Given the location, Balls Brothers’ St James’s establishment is appropriately Establishment with a capital E. Settle into one of several nooks favoured by businessmen, secretaries, fine art dealers & gentlemen who probably own Labradors. The fare is honest & it’s British – deep-filled salt beef, toasted Cheddar or smoked salmon sandwiches, pork pie & piccalilli, mackerel fillets with warm potato salad at lunch; seaside & farmhouse platters during evening service. France is a strong suit on the 100-strong wine list. Sancerre rosé (£22) & similarly priced South African Sauvignon line up with ports, sherries & dessert tipples by the glass. Bubble lovers get anything from £33 house NV to Krug at £200. The bar is closed at weekends, when the Establishment set is out of town.