Axis

From the art deco entrance with its sweeping spiral staircase to the elegant mezzanine cocktail bar, Axis has more of the restrained luxury of a smart cruise-liner than a bustling city-centre hotel. The dining room was extensively renovated in 2007, & though the mint-green silk wall coverings & screen of nickel birch trunks certainly attract attention, they do little to warm up the cool, tiled space. On the other hand, smiling service makes for a pleasant atmosphere. A confident menu focuses on British ingredients simply prepared, so Denham Estate venison, served medium-rare, is complemented by the earthiness of parsnip puree, while a plump fillet of cod sits on a bed of creamed potato. To round off the meal, steamed treacle sponge served with pungent ginger ice-cream judiciously resists over-sweetness. The pre-/post-theatre menu (three courses for £17.50) & a good selection of wine by the glass are also worth noting.