Assaggi feels like a secret restaurant, & that’s part of its appeal: find the entrance on a quiet cobbled mews behind the Chepstow pub, ascend the staircase & you arrive in a discreet,
‘almost shabby-chic’ dining room. There’s a vibrant, summery feel to the place, with peach-coloured walls & deep-blue panels – perhaps inspired by chef/proprietor Nino Sassu’s native Sardinia.
Regulars appreciate the unaffected simplicity of the cooking, which seldom gets in the way of top-notch ingredients. Gorgeously fatty San Daniele ham with pecorino shavings & peppery rocket
could start things off, or you might fancy sardines with tomatoes & olives; after that, move on to something equally forthright such as grilled calf’s liver with puréed potatoes, a veal cutlet
or fritto misto. Prices are steep, but there’s no doubt that this ‘energetic’ 15-year-old is doing something right.
WINE LIST: Only 36 bins long, the wine selection here is short and sweet, yet it succeeds in offering a comprehensive overview of the highlights of Italy. Prices are well thought out with
good deals to be had at every price point. Tasting notes are clear, concise & informative. Overall, a very accessible wine list. BEST BUY WHITE 2009 Stefano Inama, Vulcaia Sauvignon
Blanc, Veneto, Italy, £36.50. BEST BUY RED 2007 Colombaia, Rosso Toscano IGT, Tuscany, Italy, £34.50.
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