Dubbed ‘the most self-consciously cool restaurant in London’, the split-level eatery at the St Martin’s Lane Hotel provides a funked-up dining experience in a pulsating, noisy environment that’s
good for groups. There’s certainly plenty to look at, not least Philippe Starck’s high-concept 90s interior, with its book-lined pillars, monochrome portraits & dangling light bulbs. The fusion
food, which takes inspiration from Cuba’s ‘Chino Latino’ cafés, is good, but scary prices suggest that the restaurant has ‘an over-inflated opinion of its own value’. Clued-up staff encourage
grazing, which seems at odds with the family-size portions. Tuna tartare on wonton crisps slips down nicely, while sweet soy salmon comes with a winning textural combination of Asian mushrooms
& cucumber escabeche; other dishes, however, can be bland. Whatever you think of the hybrid cuisine, the glamour & energy are hard to resist. ‘If you’re feeling flash, flush & hungry,
it’s a corker’, trumpets one convert.
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