Rustic, romantic and unpretentious, this ramshackle bistro/wine bar is a ‘blissfully local' Soho institution serving unchallenging food in two intimate dining rooms whose elbow-to-elbow tables are decorated with hedgerow posies and dripping candles. Prints by Hogarth and Gillray cover the dark walls, while a tiny ground-floor corner bar dispenses fantastic finds from arguably the ‘best value-per-drop wine list in London', with bargains and bin ends in abundance. Aside from the ever-present dressed crab, the menu offers a daily roll call of seasonal dishes from heritage tomato panzanella or asparagus with potato gnocchi and taleggio fondue to Angus beef shepherd's pie – ‘home cooking plus', according to one fan. Staff are ‘laid-back yet disarmingly efficient', and the boho vibe makes it a firm favourite with the area's media and arty types. Sadly, bookings taken only one week in advance are an ongoing irritation.
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