Whether it’s the stashing of your rain-sodden coat, the dimming of lights at just the right time, or an engaging discussion with the sommelier, the service at this polished restaurant smoothes & soothes. The bright, contemporary dining area, a ‘lovely, welcoming room’, aids relaxation too. Ordering the pre-theatre menu (£18.95 for three courses) means you can indulge in an inexpensive midweek meal whether you then visit the Almeida theatre across the road or not. Food has a classical French grounding, but the youthful kitchen team creates elegant modern dishes from prime British ingredients: Cornish crab with avocado tian & confit tomato, for instance, or a main course of braised suckling pig with pomme purée & carrots, with a creamy-sharp passion-fruit tart to finish. A French-leaning wine list follows the same classic-yet-original theme. If you’re pushed for time, order the assiette maison of charcuterie & cheese, which includes a glass of house wine.
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