Al Duca

Free from brand-name hype, designer looks & trend-conscious cooking, Al Duca pulls off the unthinkable, mixing a Mayfair location with good value & no apparent compromise. Inside, expect innocuous no-frills stuff, with bright & breezy ceiling-height windows, terracotta tiling & napery doing just enough to reach smart. From a generous basket of complimentary bread onwards, the food outperforms its surrounds. An intense duck ragù with thyme tagliatelle may be the standout pasta dish, but crab tagliolini with chilli & garlic is more popular among regulars hooked on definitive classics such as veal milanese & tiramisu. Specials change daily & often yield unexpected treats; the raw salad of porcini & Parmesan is a must-order in season. Menu price tags (four courses at £33.50) are matched by a commendable wine list with plenty of sub-£30 offerings.