Any restaurant hidden away behind Jermyn Street's gents' outfitters should set financial alarm bells ringing, but confident, upbeat Al Duca confounds expectations with its terrific-value fixed-price menus (£33.50 for four courses, plus even better early-evening deals). The interior keeps it smart, simple and real with terracotta tones, mosaic tiling, oak timbers and full-length windows, while the cooking shows plenty of generosity and regional intent. Dishes such as orecchiette with Italian sausage, pecorino, broccoli and sweet onion suggest a sure hand in the pasta department, but the menu also pulls in everything from chicken livers with soft polenta and black truffle to pan-fried duck breast with grilled radicchio, pumpkin sauce and Marsala reduction. Seasonal specials are worth a look, desserts stay with the classics and the wine list is packed with fine bottles from the Italian regions.
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