The Admiral Codrington

A good and reliable pub with enclosed restaurant (or other way around as you see it fit the occasion) that's been around for ages. Nothing spectacular but good steady cooking (much better than your average pub food)

The Admiral Codrington seems to be a tale of 2 cities. The front parlour is rammed with high octane flirting and peacocking from old-money-but-working-in-something-suity types mostly under 35. But push through to the back and it opens out into an incredibly light, civilised little conservatory-housed bistro restaurant. I had actually been here before for boozy work drinks and several casual meals with friends (but inexplicably had forgotten this fact). The draw this time was the cheeseburger which according to a recent poll conducted by Burgerac (is there a better named food blogger?!) is London's favourite burger. With stiff competition from the likes of Meatliquor and the Piggy Burger at Bar Boulod that is a big claim and we had to check it out. The burger is indeed sublime and earns the 10/10 rating: a brioche style bun robust enough to hold in the juicy patty (cooked to medium pinky perfection) without falling apart but without stealing the show either. Hand cut chips provide a great foil to the main show. It's not just about the burgers though. I had a brilliant creamy burrata starter, although my fiancee was a bit disappointed with his cold globe artichoke, and we shared a deliciously rich sticky toffee pud to end. Service is spot on with the meal well paced and the only flaw being a slight delay in delivery of the chips. There is a great range of customers providing a background hum although it has to be noted that there are some children, some Americans and the couple next to us eat their burgers with a knife and fork. WHAT?! Everyone knows the whole point of meat between bread is that you can eat it with your fingers thus allowing you to continue gambling away your inheritance unhampered by cutlery. Ask the Earl of Sandwich. If you don't have an inheritance you should know the bill including a good bottle of Argentinian Malbec was a very reasonable £45 a head. I will not forget this place again.

REVIEW: The Admiral Codrington, Chelsea
The Admiral Codrington Burger Review.

The Admiral Codrington is extremely hidden and tucked away in the back roads in fashionable Chelsea, near Sloane Avenue. From the outside of this ‘Pub’ it looks very dated and dare I say it, normal. Once through its doors you arrive into a cosy, traditional pub with dark wooden cladding. I was about to place my order at the bar and take a seat when we were told that our table was around the side in the restaurant, it was a lush sitting with lovely, bright, fresh decor. We were seated in one of their booths which was very America and a unexpected addition to the venue, very comfy and I could have stayed here all day with the large jug of delicious Pimms we ordered.

So onto the burger! I had heard and read a lot of great things about this burger and its famed creator, Fred Smith so it was about time I got round to sampling the delight. The 8oz Cheeseburger with Bacon, Pickles and a side of chips (not fries!) costs £15. Which I think to date is the most expensive burger I have had. Compared to its other competitors it is definitely not trying to compete in a price war, with the likes of Meat Liquor charging around £10 including chips. However, in my opinion it is well worth the £15.

The brioche bun is extremely light and fluffy with perfect bun to meat ratio. Not too much and not too little.
As for the Pattie itself, the meat is lovely, a good mixture of fat and meat. I asked for it to be cooked medium and it cooked to perfection. Words cannot describe just how JUICY the meat was, succulent and mouth-watering, not too salty and seasoned to perfection. 'It’s all in the seasoning' says Chef Fred Smith, and this, can certainly be tasted. The cheese and pickles compliment the burger well, not overpowering the meat while the Bacon (which was not too salty) adds richness and complexity. The chips also need a mention which were delicious, a proper crisp outside, not soggy and again, seasoned well.

I am no ‘Official’ food critic but comparing it to the likes of other burger venues such as Bar Boulud, Meat Liquor, Mother Flipper etc. I can whole-heartedly say that this Burger, to date, is by far the BEST I have tasted. Well done Fred Smith.

Whoever is reading this blog out there (and i hope someone is) you should be picking up your phone NOW and dialling 0207 581 0005 to book your table :-)

9/10

When so many Sunday lunches are clearly kept around waiting to be served, meaning the vegetables and potatoes start to go, it was great to see an excellent roast beef plate, with perfectly well cooked vegetables and potatoes. The food here is well cooked and freshly made, sadly not something I can say for so many other venues. Well worth a visit if a good Sunday roast is what you are after. Don't waste your money on poor quality or imitations. The staff were attentive and accommodating the different needs of our party of various ages, the mash was “delicious” to quote our younger diner.

As I’ve mentioned in my earlier reviews, I really enjoy the British pub grub type places. I’m obviously not referring to the smelly boozer hang-outs, but the slightly more polished pubs. The Cod is probably one of the best examples and has been one of my favourites for a long time, not so much for the excellent food, but more for the atmosphere and the pleasant staff. That said, I really do enjoy their menu. As I am a big meat-fan, I went for the steak tartar as a starter and the rump steak to follow. The steak tartar was excellently spiced, and although the actual portion was quite small, I liked the fact that enough bread was served with it, which usually isn’t the case at most places. The steak didn’t have any flaws and the peppercorn sauce was great, admittedly a difficult dish to fail with.

I was surprised to see that the dining section of the pub was quite empty. In fact, we were probably the second or third company of people when we arrived at around 8-9 pm. My memory tells me that this hasn’t usually been the case, at least let’s hope it isn’t a new trend. The interior is fairly simple and straight-forward, just like you would expect from this type of venue. Compared to my local favourite, the Duke, the Cod is slightly more sophisticated, and the sound level more akin to a “normal” brasserie-style restaurant, rather than a loud pub.

As a conclusion, this is a great, although not super-cheap, place to go with a bunch of friends who appreciate simple but well-executed food. I wouldn’t dismiss it as a good date place either as it is quite laid-back and usually has a buzzy atmosphere.