Affectionately known as The Cod, this upmarket gastropub has been a ‘reliable’ fixture of the Chelsea scene for years, mixing the virtues of a gregarious local boozer with the attributes of a rather civilised neighbourhood restaurant. The glass-ceilinged, nautically themed dining room at the rear is bright and airy by day, romantic at night, with chintzy banquettes and booths, framed pictures of fish and a ship’s wheel. ‘Good, steady cooking’ is the order of the day, and the kitchen avoids fancy flurries in favour of, say, crabmeat and poached egg on brioche with hollandaise, lobster linguine, steaks and burgers using rare-breed beef. Meanwhile, the poseurs, off-duty suits and drinking hordes packed into the high-octane front parlour can sup draught ales (including Upham’s Punter & Sprinter) alongside fine wines and cocktails made with premium spirits.
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