A few old-stagers might remember the Cod’s rampaging days as a high-octane boozer, although it now puts on a more genteel, nautically inclined face. Fish paintings & a ship’s wheel drive home the point, while the retractable glass roof is a nice touch – although some of the atmosphere in the L-shaped room is thrown overboard, with many tables crammed up by the serving hatch. That said, the kitchen generally does a ‘mighty fine job’, offering a choice of flavoured butters to sex up your steak, burgers cooked rare to order, & textbook renditions of the ubiquitous Scotch egg. On the down side, bar snacks such as pork crackling with apple sauce have been under-seasoned & tender lamb shoulder has appeared with an odd-looking aubergine ‘boat’ – a nod to the seafaring theme, perhaps.
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