‘Family-run, genuine & downright delicious’, is one verdict on this heroically old-school Italian overlooking the grounds of the Honourable Artillery Company. Polite, black-shirted waiters work the tables, serving a clutch of regulars who almost look like part of the furniture – but don’t expect doddery service or dustiness here: the food, which absorbs British & Med influences along the way, is honest, ‘non-pretentious’ & terrific value, with most mains coming in below £20 (think roasted salmon fillet with a parsley & pine-nut crust alongside saltimbocca). To begin, you might go for fresh sardines on home-baked toasted bread with gremolata or pancakes stuffed with ricotta, spinach & tomatoes, while desserts are decidedly traditional. The wine list isn’t stuck in the Old World, either – note the Viognier from current vinous hot spot, New Zealand’s Gimblett Gravels.
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