Locale Balham

If there was only one branch of Locale, preferably run by a moustachioed Mario & tucked down a charming side street, it would do extremely well. As an upmarket chain, though, it can fall foul of foodie snobbery, particularly because its branches are in affluent neighbourhoods whose inhabitants find the safe, comfortable interiors too lacking in rustic charm for their well-travelled sensibilities. It’s a shame, because if you look past the safe corporate surrounds, you’ll find sweet-natured service & cooking – from humble pizzas to rare-breed suckling pig – that far surpasses its price tag. Witness the flavours of meaty razors clams cooked over charcoal or a rich, comforting heap of perfectly al dente pappardelle, the wide ribbons of pasta smothered in an intense duck ragù. Occasionally, you’ll hear the Italian chefs singing in the kitchen: this is food made with love.