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Alistair’s Brasserie

35 Stoke Newington Church Street, London N16 0NX

£38.00 Modern European Stoke Newington, Stamford Hill
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On a street not short of dining choices, this small brasserie has an understated charm. It’s less clamorous than some of its neighbours, but the cooking of Pied à Terre-trained chef Alistair Dibbs speaks for itself, easily taking centre stage in the cosy room. Modern British cuisine, executed simply & well, is the theme of the ‘classics’ menu, witness the shepherd’s pie or the beer-battered fillet of cod with chips & pea purée. There are more twiddles & twirls on the equally tempting dinner menu – perhaps twice-baked soufflé of Reblochon cheese with potato, apple & fennel salad. Prices are modest for such accomplished fare, & staff are helpful & friendly. The well-considered wine list offers a limited but interesting choice, almost all available by the glass. A ‘marvellous local’.

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