The swanky, club-like basement of the über-glitzy and seriously pricey Bulgari Hotel is the setting for global superstar Alain Ducasse’s second London restaurant, Rivea – a spin-off from his venue of the same name in St Tropez. Inspired by the sunnier climes of Italy and France, the kitchen melds ‘small plates’ with a ‘tasting menu’ concept – so each diner gets two starters, a pasta dish and a main course. Sadly, in a diamante-studded room, head chef Damien Leroux’s food was practically the only thing which refused to sparkle when we visited. While a delicate lobster gelée served with a foam channelling the taste of the sea was a rich, refined experience, other dishes displayed little in the way of finesse – from an octopus salad that consisted of more potato than seafood to bland gnocchi with hints of parmesan and sage. Perhaps it feels different when you’re eating in the St Tropez sun?
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Menu includes 2 starters, 1 main and 1 dessert coffee, tea and ½ bottle of water.
Max: 6 people
Starts: 13 Jun 2014
Expires: 13 Sep 2014£35