Judging by the buzz at this sibling to Hoxton’s Red Dog Saloon, Clapham is for carnivores: the restaurant is crammed full of young office workers, fervently worshipping at the altar of US barbecue. Inspired by the owner's travels across the States, Red Dog is an Americana alchemist, having concocted a winning blend of pit cooked meats (including brisket treated to 20 hours in a wood-fired smoker), an international range of beers and a bright, open-plan dining room and bar. Tender meat brims with sticky, tangy flavours but the smaller details, like delicious own-recipe meat sauces or even an unassuming Burnt End Pie side dish with moreish chunks of buttery pork, are equally good. Success in Clapham will enable expansion plans for the Red Dog pack, tempting wannabe cowboys to gallop straight to dinner.
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