Having wowed Londoners with Burger & Lobster, the Goodman steakhouse group has come up with another wheeze – this time involving steak and luxurious Norwegian red king crabs (the divas of seafood). Dominated by three huge communal tables lit by candles and dripping candelabra, the dramatic basement dining room is an extravagant setting for an extravagant set menu weighing in at a hefty £75 (without drinks). Following some mature morsels mined from a huge quarter-wheel of parmesan, diners are offered a slab of quality rib-eye steak, served with smoked heritage tomato salad rather than chips. But crab is really the main event here: sweet, succulent flesh that makes native examples pale into insignificance. Swanky sides are rather unnecessary, while the pricey wine list is a who’s who of top producers. Beast is a beauty for the West End’s high-rolling crowd, though we wonder who would visit more than once.
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