Roots reggae, rocksteady and ska booming from dancehall bass bins alert you to the presence of Dub Jam. Inside, it’s not much bigger than a bus shelter, clad in graffiti-daubed corrugated iron panels and decorated with lurid carnival-toned flotsam and jetsam – more Kingston, Jamaica than Covent Garden. Beat-up, ragamuffin-chic sets the scene for flavoursome BBQ street food and booze: dry-aged burgers in flatbread, properly marinated jerk chicken, velvety pork belly, haloumi and pepper skewers; ‘rice ’n’ peace’ – ‘you can get it if you really want it’ here. Still on a reggae tip, there’s no ‘red, red wine’ – or any other colour, for that matter. Alcohol is limited to Carib and Red Stripe lager, rums and a brace of cocktails: we’d like to see something more than lollipop-sweet piña colada ‘slush puppies’ and fruity Wray & Nephew’s punch served in tins at this jammin’ joint.
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