Chef James Lowe has been a face on London’s food scene for several years, making a name for himself as one of The Young Turks at supperclubs and residencies around town – so it’s good to report that his first solo restaurant, in Shoreditch High Street’s Tea Building, easily delivers on high expectations. White brick walls, a concrete floor and low-hanging lights create an offputtingly harsh look, but the cooking exudes more warmth. An eight-course daily changing dinner menu goes big on British ingredients, while Scandinavian influences abound in dishes such as an earthy yet sweet cake made from blood pudding with damson and chicory, crispy pan-fried lamb’s sweetbreads with punchy wild garlic, and vibrantly green and tangy nettle soup embellished with melting strips of cured pig’s cheek. Vermouth is the backbone of the cocktail menu, while the extensive wine list focuses on ‘natural’ tipples.
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